One could say that appearances don't really matter here in Jerusalem. This is true in a sense. Kids are mis-matched from head to toe. You can wear what you want and no one cares. You aren't judged by what you are wearing or not wearing.
However, in an ironic twist, you are designated by what you wear. When we first arrived in Jerusalem, it became quickly apparent that attire designated religious association.
There are the Orthodox men in their black and white suites with tallit hanging down. They wear a black hat for head covering. Their wives wear long sleeve right shirts with looser fitting short sleeve on top and long black skirts, tights and shoes. Older Orthodox wives wear wigs while the younger generation wear scarves or head wraps.
Then there are Jews ranging from religious to secular who might dress as you or I do with the exception of a kippa or not. Arabs walk around as well. The women are easier to spot with the full head covering and long jackets. I hurt for them imagining how uncomfortable they must be in this heat. The men usually wear slacks and short-sleeved shirts - they aren't as distinguishable.
I can reflect now on how I felt when we first arrived. Women really wouldn't make eye contact with me. I went out and bought a long skirt without even realizing I was trying to fit in to their group. (As if that would happen with a simple skirt!) It was when I was in my room and trying to wrap my head in a scarf that I realized how ridiculously desperate I was for some signs of friendship.
Bottom line is it made me consider how I dress at home and how I judge others based on the same criteria. Are they like me or not? Are they on my team, or not?
I suppose we take comfort in doing things like others do. It reassures us that we are ok and calms our insecurities. It sure has been easier to see through their fronts than to seriously consider mine. Strip away our homes, our cars or how we dress, who are we really?
Tuesday, July 31, 2012
Time's A Flyin'
We are about two weeks out from turning our eyes and hearts back to Texas! We all find ourselves talking about it often enough that we have to remind ourselves to stay present in the moment and enjoy ourselves in the here and now.
Update: Last Sabbath we spent the day at the Jerusalem Pool with the Oppenheim's. James, Rachel and kids are fantastic! We laugh, listen and seem to have formed an immediate bond. Really hope they make it over to our side of the pond one day. And we hope to keep in touch over future visits here if possible. Our kids have become fast friends as well. Love us some Oppenheim's.
Rachel! |
Sunday was another great day. Our fake VPN didn't work out as well as we had hoped. Or maybe it was NBC, but to our disappointment, we only got scattered pieces of the Olympic opening ceremony. That evening we went to Joel and Cathy's home in Abu Tor, an Arab/Jewish neighborhood in Jerusalem. (American fam that has lived here 5 years.) We attempted walking there from the Old City. Ended up in the Valley of Gehennah which is where we get the biblical images of "Hell", and that's exactly where we found ourselves - lost, hot, pushing 2 strollers up major hills. I relented and finally told Scott that the Cramer's had offered to pick us up in their car. So, we called our new, sweet friends and they rescued us from hell!
Had a great dinner with them after our tour through hell. Cathy is an amazing mother to 3. She home-schools in a foreign country - enough said. Joel is pursuing his Masters while making powerful films on faith. Fascinating. We have a few of his films if anyone would like to see them.
In the US, he had done a film on Mormonism. He compared the dependability of the bible versus the book of Mormon. The outcome is jawdropping. While there is a detailed story in the book of Mormon about its people and beginnings, there is zero archeological evidence. Scott told Ryan it would be like hearing about Jerusalem all your life to find out it never existed! The films approach the issues in a very non-confrontational, factual way. We are bringing them home for conversation.
They are wonderful to open up their home to people passing though and share their experiences. Incredibly grateful we got to meet them!
In the US, he had done a film on Mormonism. He compared the dependability of the bible versus the book of Mormon. The outcome is jawdropping. While there is a detailed story in the book of Mormon about its people and beginnings, there is zero archeological evidence. Scott told Ryan it would be like hearing about Jerusalem all your life to find out it never existed! The films approach the issues in a very non-confrontational, factual way. We are bringing them home for conversation.
They are wonderful to open up their home to people passing though and share their experiences. Incredibly grateful we got to meet them!
Friday, July 27, 2012
Tisha B'Av
This weekend is a bit different. Normal Sabbath sundown Friday to Saturday. But then Sunday is Tisha B'Av - a day of mourning and remembrance. The actual 9th day of Ov (Tisha B'Av) is on Saturday, but due to Sabbath, it is celebrated on Sunday.
Tisha B'Av primarily commemorates the destruction of the first and second Temples, both of which were destroyed on the ninth of Av (the first by the Babylonians in 586 B.C.E.; the second by the Romans in 70 C.E.).
Although this holiday is primarily meant to commemorate the destruction of the Temple, it is appropriate to consider on this day the many other tragedies of the Jewish people, many of which occurred on this day, most notably the expulsion of the Jews from Spain in 1492.1
The restrictions on Tisha B'Av are similar to those on Yom Kippur: to refrain from eating and drinking (even water); washing, bathing, shaving or wearing cosmetics; wearing leather shoes; engaging in sexual relations; and studying Torah. Work in the ordinary sense of the word [rather than theShabbat sense] is also restricted. People who are ill need not fast on this day. Many of the traditional mourning practices are observed: people refrain from smiles, laughter and idle conversation, and sit on low stools.
In synagogue, the book of Lamentations is read and mourning prayers are recited. The ark (cabinet where the Torah is kept) is draped in black.
So at sundown tomorrow, we plan to go to the Western Wall to observe all the prayers of thousands that will gather there. Then on Sunday evening we are having dinner with Cathy and her family. They are the American family we met who have been her five years. It will be nice to spend an evening with friends.
Scott figured out a way for us to enjoy the Olympics on our computer so tomorrow, our Sabbath day will be spent huddled around our Mac cheering for the US and Israel.
Wednesday, July 25, 2012
Another Picture Diary
Typical street and traffic in Jerusalem |
Plastic recycling stations all around the city |
Ryan shopping for sweets in upscale bakery. Notice the Challah bread - must have been Friday before Sabbath. |
One alley leading to our apartment. Construction going on other side of metal wall on right. |
Quick peek into an alley |
One of our local chicken guys. Hearts and livers available to far left. |
Western Wall with men on left, women on right. |
Mosaic inside Holy Seplechur. 3 scenes - the crucifixion, bringing Christ down, then this one - preparing Him for burial. |
Typical public bathroom. Common area for hand washing with separate toilet areas. Ryan's thinking, "Really, mom?!" |
One of my fav Asian/Veg dishes served on the Dairy side of my fav restaurant, Rimon. |
You see Jews dressed in a variety of ways - from a regular kippa to all out suits. |
Neighborhood synagogue directly behind our apartment. |
Shiloh Street runs from our house towards Shuk - about a 5 minute walk with houses, alleys, shops and synagogues all along the way. |
5028 was awesome!
After a four-hour, nausea-inducing bus ride, the six Heare's arrived at the Club Hotel in Eliat. The hotel is massive - includes six separate pools, a grocery store, work-out facility, dining hall, restaurant, game room, ping-pong tables, synagogue and auditorium for shows. There were lines of people checking in for their stays. A sweet girl named Nicole, who once lived in Utah, took pity on me, the wide-eyed American and took us to the back for a fast check-in. Still thanking God for her. Whenever we were lost or utterly confused, we'd hunt down Nicole!
So 5028 was our room number. Unfortunately, we became notorious at the hotel. Eventually where ever we went, the employees would give us a knowing, understanding smile suggesting they were thinking, "Oh, it's you. I've heard ALL about you."
From broken bottles and dishes, to rescuing swimsuits that blew off our ledge, we ended up calling the front desk again and again. They were super patient with us but they may have thrown a little party upon our leaving. (We were also the only Caucasian's in the place, so maybe that added to our notoriety.)
Loved our get away! Ate a big breakfast every am in their dining hall. Typical Israeli breakfast includes a variety of salads, yogurts, cheeses, sardines, hard-boiled eggs, "pancakes", fruit and bread. Kids had all the chocolate milk they could drink so they managed and experimented with some new foods as well.
Swimming pools were heaven. Cool and clean. Loved it all. We also found some dramamine for trip back home, so ride home went much more smoothly - until we almost missed the bus after a pit-stop when little boys were taking a little too long in bathroom. Ryan and Em were literally stopping the bus for me as I ran to retrieve boys. When they say "20 minute stop", they mean it!
Eliat boasts the world's only underwater observatory. They also have a smaller version of Sea World. Great outing with the kids. Amazing colorful reefs with all sorts of fun fish.
Red Sea with Jordan in the background. Gorgeous! |
So 5028 was our room number. Unfortunately, we became notorious at the hotel. Eventually where ever we went, the employees would give us a knowing, understanding smile suggesting they were thinking, "Oh, it's you. I've heard ALL about you."
From broken bottles and dishes, to rescuing swimsuits that blew off our ledge, we ended up calling the front desk again and again. They were super patient with us but they may have thrown a little party upon our leaving. (We were also the only Caucasian's in the place, so maybe that added to our notoriety.)
Loved our get away! Ate a big breakfast every am in their dining hall. Typical Israeli breakfast includes a variety of salads, yogurts, cheeses, sardines, hard-boiled eggs, "pancakes", fruit and bread. Kids had all the chocolate milk they could drink so they managed and experimented with some new foods as well.
Swimming pools were heaven. Cool and clean. Loved it all. We also found some dramamine for trip back home, so ride home went much more smoothly - until we almost missed the bus after a pit-stop when little boys were taking a little too long in bathroom. Ryan and Em were literally stopping the bus for me as I ran to retrieve boys. When they say "20 minute stop", they mean it!
Eliat boasts the world's only underwater observatory. They also have a smaller version of Sea World. Great outing with the kids. Amazing colorful reefs with all sorts of fun fish.
Everyones favorite - the octopus. |
Wednesday, July 18, 2012
Headed to Eilat
I had a quiet moment of gratitude today driving home to Jerusalem from Tel Aviv. Emily and I had just dropped mom off at the airport and she was snoozing in the backseat. It was still early in the morning and the sun was just beginning to stream down onto the hills.
It is a beautiful thing to ascend to the city of Jerusalem. To the East of the city is dessert. To the West and North are plains of farmland. So, entering from any direction, the geography shifts to hills, tall green trees, gans cut into mountains and energetic life. The land feels promising and hopeful.
I am more and more appreciating our time here - driving a car blowing AC may have helped to induce this sweet, reflective moment! I think it is because we have figured out the basics of living here and feel more comfortable just being. It's kind of funny, but we are asked by Israeli's and other tourists for directions here more and more. We must even be looking like we are fitting in! Kids have settled down too and we are finding a good rhythm with each other.
Promise to post lots of picts soon. We are off!
Tomorrow starts the final leg of our time here. Vacation! With Scott's classes behind him, we now get to leave Jerusalem a bit more frequently and see more of the country. We leave for Eilat tomorrow. Eilat is in Southern Israel near the border of Egypt. Scott and I have driven thru the port city before - absolutely beautiful! We are staying at a family-friendly hotel with pools, restaurants and fun - all there. Which is great, because it is going to be warm - projected 115 degrees and we will need to stay close to the water.
For Grandma
We love Grandma! Thanks for coming to visit and share this experience with us. You brought cheer and smiles into our home - in addition to yummy oatmeal. Won't ever forget our time with you here! Glad Israel ended up surprising and delighting you in return.
Love us some of Grandma's Oatmeal! |
Western Wall |
Quick - Get a pick of the soldier with a gun! |
Stylin' in the Shuk |
Playground fun |
Our evening out to dinner |
For Quilting Buddies |
Sewing through time |
Mount of Olives |
Are we home yet?! |
Popparazzi shot - 2 Texans spotted at Western Wall |
We are wet, but we did it! |
Conquering fears at Hezekiah's Tunnel |
Southern Stairs. Looks like an angels behind you in stone, mom. |
Chillin' with the girls |
Monday, July 16, 2012
The Big 5
International Birthday Parties R Us!
Ethan's sweet friends made his day today and came up for cupcakes, balloons and fun. In pict - Morty -11, Viggy -5, Ethan - 5, Kylen -3, Bro -8, Emily -9 and Ryan -12.
The Motley Crew |
Ethan wanted a b-day pick with Bro alone. You may be 5, but you are too young for that! |
Our Tigger : ) |
Morty is the one that usually has this toy in his hand. Called a diabolo, you get the center part spinning then do all sorts of manuvering. Morty has Em hooked on it. |
Bro is a natural mom. Loves Kylen and singing to tunes on Ipad |
Pizza at Jacob's Pizza with Tom and Jerry cartoons playing in background. Ethan's fav restaurant.
Jerusalem Oasis
Sweet friends Tim and Michelle Becksvoort's encouraged us to contact some of the friends they had made during their Israeli stay. So this week, the kids, Grandma and I met up with Cathy Kramer and her kids Barry, Petra and Rachel. Beautiful American family who have been living here 5 years. How fun to laugh and share all our common confusions. Love Cathy & bonus - she introduced us to my new favorite part of Jerusalem, a secret Oasis!
Kramer's & Heare's See-Sawing |
Did someone spot a naked Transformer? |
Yep - naked allright. Fell into the water and didn't mind one bit! |
Sunday, July 15, 2012
Picture Diary
A little picture summary.
Scott has finished school - really enjoyed second class at the JUC, Jesus and His Times. Ethan turns 5 on Tuesday though we are celebrating tomorrow. Em and I take Grandma for a girls road-trip/sleepover to Tel Aviv on Tuesday then she returns home. Then our gang is off to Elat for week at the Club Hotel. Kids are pumped for the swimming! Scott and I are pumped to get to one place with food and accommodation settled and just stay there.
Scott has finished school - really enjoyed second class at the JUC, Jesus and His Times. Ethan turns 5 on Tuesday though we are celebrating tomorrow. Em and I take Grandma for a girls road-trip/sleepover to Tel Aviv on Tuesday then she returns home. Then our gang is off to Elat for week at the Club Hotel. Kids are pumped for the swimming! Scott and I are pumped to get to one place with food and accommodation settled and just stay there.
En Gedi |
Mediteranean Sea |
Shuk Shopping |
Spices at the Shuk |
How cute and fun is this?! |
Dead Sea |
Kids in Mediteranean |
Milk comes in plastic bags |
Typical Israeli salad |
Mt. Herzel |
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